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On the best day, Trolltunga is a long day in the mountains, about 8-12 hours depending on how quickly you move. Located near Tyssedal, Norway, this hike quickly ascends into the high mountains. In the summer, you can take the hike on your own, however, in the winter you will need to travel with a guide. We spoke with many locals on our way to Tyssedal and most responded with some form of disbelief at the concept we were going to take on Trolltunga that week amidst heavy snowfall. One weary older woman even said, “No, no Trolltunga… too much snow.” As we tallied up person after person telling us we couldn’t, I began to question if this was going to be doable. We took a group from Madison, WI over to test ourselves in the rugged Norwegian mountains on a snowy winter day and came back with new knowledge of our strengths.
Training for the trek
If you’re here, it might mean you’re considering taking on the Norway adventure that is Trolltunga. While I knew it would be difficult, I didn’t know just how challenging it was going to get. Where I come from we don’t have high mountains or even low mountains for that matter. I don’t come with an extensive mountain or alpine background. I’m an average at best cross country skier and I enjoy lifting weights. I trained for the hike through interval incline treadmill walks and logged a decent bit of mileage on my skis. Cardiovascularly, I felt well and prepared but the question left in my mind was how my body would hold up to what wound up being an 11-hour test. The truth is, unless you have a solid mountain resume, this one’s probably gonna hurt a bit. Trolltunga is a hike you’ll need to earn in the summer and most definitely in the winter. As I watched our group struggle, at some moments individually and others collectively, the thing that stood out to us and our incredible Norwegian guides, Celine and Michael, was the overwhelming positive spirit. Each person pressed on and leaned into the discomfort using gratitude and laughter to get through.
The Hike turned Expedition
We arrived at P2 at 8:00 A.M. and met our guides. After a short briefing, we hopped in a few snowmobiles to make our way a little further up the mountain. As I looked up at the mountains, I began to feel so much excitement that we’d soon be ascending into them. We found ourselves well beyond these initial peaks and further into a vast range.
The First Challenge
The first quarter of a mile on Trolltunga is said to be the most difficult as it’s a good chunk of the elevation gain.
“Okay, I thought to myself, 400 meters and we’re through the most challenging part.”
The truth is, a 400-meter running track doesn’t seem too crazy when it’s in an oval, but when you stretch it out into a straight line, you realize 400 meters in a constant climb in the snow is going to be a grind. The climb was challenging, packed with many false summits where you think you’ve reached the end only to realize as you come over the edge a new climb will begin again shortly. Markers jut out of the deep snow guiding the path. My eyes inevitably follow them one to the next each time I find myself at a peak. Our makeshift trail markers always seem to disappear each time beyond eyesight into the snowy grey.
On the ascent, visibility is not great, between the clouds and the large snowflakes falling but it makes the experience even grander in a way. The temperature despite the snow is comfortable as I’ve dressed well in proper layers. Following the PACKING LIST and advice provided by your guides will certainly serve you well. We stop periodically to replace layers when cold, strip layers when too warm, take sips of water, and put in a few calories. We end each stop with the insistence to get moving again as sweat begins to cool and we begin to freeze.
The Troll’s Tongue
After hours of steady trudging, we begin to make the final climb. I notice the steady crunch of snow has turned into ice as we near the top. Our guides warned us to stay a healthy distance from the edge as the ice has made a false cliff that risks breaking away. The view down into the valley is obstructed by fog and we can really only see the “Troll’s Tongue” so staying back from the edge is no problem. The wind has picked up, the snow is blowing sideways. We snap a few quick photos, quickly shove a sandwich down and it’s time to head out. The summit is cold so getting back down a bit will take us a little bit out of the elements.
We aren’t done yet.
The thing about a mountain adventure that people seem to forget and underestimate is that as the old saying goes, “What goes up, must come down” applies to mountain hikes just as well. We were told going back down would be quicker and it was. We were told it would be easier and unfortunately for me, it wasn’t. Going down for hours in clear conditions is tough on the knees and joints, going down in snowshoes might be worse. After a few hours, it felt like someone was stabbing me in the knee. Be sure to always notify your guides or team if you’re in pain, it doesn’t mean anything has to change, but in an adventure like this, it’s important everyone is on the same page so no surprises come up later. I know my body pretty well and didn’t feel like I was in any real danger of getting seriously hurt, it was just going to be a long uncomfortable part of the journey and process. I changed my gate a bit and the pain came and went depending on where we were on the trail. The hike back was long, some portions more challenging, like when you are descending on a narrow pass where a slip could lead to a tumble with not much distance between you and a cliff. The dense fog lifted on our way back and we were rewarded with beautiful views of the mountains, valleys, and lakes around us.
Closure
We got back to the Trolltunga trailhead and proceeded down the winding road that we had skipped with our snowmobile ride. The road takes a while, so when you get there, you’ve still got a ways back. For me, Trolltunga was the dream. Years ago, I sat in a cubicle dreaming Walter Mitty-like dreams of snowy alpine ascents and now here I was. Trolltunga asked a lot of our team and I’m proud to say we answered. If you’re going to take on this trail, keep your eyes up. It’s easy to watch only the ground in front of you, to watch each step. Every few minutes peal your eyes up and look into the mountains and find your gratitude for you are alive, you are healthy and you are in the beautiful mountains of Norway. You will most likely never be in this place again, you will never have this moment again. Life is beautiful.
Good luck,
